At this point I heard the sound of a vehicle approaching and was astounded to recognise the OB stripe and other accessories - even more happy to spot Libby behind the wheel! Since then, not much has happened - I've quickly slipped into a lazy and restful lifestyle here at basecamp. . .spending the majority of my time reading (Lord of the Rings at the moment, then onto two other tantalising gems I picked up in Atherton) and relaxing with Libby, Toni and Lorne. There doesn't seem to be much work done here at the moment. Sarah and Nugget are enjoying their stay here - there's plenty of grass around and I take them down to the water at least once a day. (We actually decided to bring them into the forbidden park since they can be hidden in the forest behind basecamp if a ranger comes to visit.
Anyway, back to the events of last week.... I woke at dawn on Saturday morning, surprised that I hadn't heard everyone arrive in the night - I'm quite a light sleeper now, and I expected the sounds of the truck, and cruiser with trailer going over the grid nearby would wake me. Either I slept through it or they've been delayed for some reason.
I was determined to experience this rodeo in Mareeba, so I didn't even bother looking for them, and walked straight out to the road to try and hitch into town. It took about an hour but was a very pleasant walk through the rainforest and pines - and I soon got a lift into Atherton (with a bloke who did a Bicentennial Trail ride with 4 of his horses, and about 200 other people) then another into Mareeba (with the manager of Steggles Chickens in Far North Queensland- trying to offer me a job!)
Realising how hungry I was (I had very little to eat since Tolga) I went straight to Coles for my usual budget feast - a pack of fruit buns and a litre of milk! By the time I walked out to the rodeo grounds it was mid-morning and the events were well under way. After watching the bronco and steer riding for a while, I found myself wandering through side-show alley, searching for something to eat and drink. Pretty much the whole day was spent like this; watching a few events then heading back for another beer or hot dog.
I was quite surprised at the skill of the cowboys in many events, but the overwhelming feeling I had as I walked out of the gates at around 3 pm was of disgust - at the cruelty of this blood sport, and the simple mindedness of its followers. "Ride 'im cOwboy" they scream... "Work that bronco" meaning dig the spurs in harder. They used electrified cattle prods to terrify the horses and bulls into a bucking frenzy before opening the gates, and used a front end loader to cart away the steers that couldn't limp out for themselves - crippled with broken shoulders or shattered legs trailing behind them. "Someone's going to have a big barbecue tonight" they laugh.
I was fascinated with the sideshow people - I'd seen them in transit, motoring along the highway from the Cairns show the previous week. Entire families and all sorts of drifters, following the shows. And also amazed at the cowboy culture... farm boys and girls, ringers, stockhands, station owners - and of course the professional rodeo people... their one chance in the year to show off to the rest of the world, full of pride as they strut about in their western gear... big black hats, leather tassels, colourful shirts, belt buckles and shining spurs.
My original plan was to party on at the rodeo, then in a pub somewhere until the wee small hours, catching a lift back to Atherton knowing I could get a lift to the Fongon Bay turnoff with the same trail riding bloke at 6.30 am. But I'd had more than enough of Mareeba by now, so started hitching back into town... rather disappointed at the whole affair - nothing except a sad realisation to show for $50. Still, I was only in it for the experience - and that's what I got...! I was picked up by an elderly couple from Sydney in a little two door hire car - they could take me as far as Atherton. The old bloke was quite chatty.. .we shared views on a lot of things, including the rodeo - his first and last as well. His wife sat staring and mute, unaware. He was constantly addressing and informing her "We're crossing the railway lines now, love" - victim of a stroke perhaps?
