Oh well, so much for an early start! We finally got back, I saddled Nugget, packed up camp and loaded Sarah, and we set off again. They played up a few times when big tourist 4x4s came roaring past (waving, mind you) in a billow of dust. All the locals slow right down or even stop "Heading for Melbourne I hear?" then "Good on yer - best of luck". There were a couple of long, straight, tedious roads into Ayton - the horses worked up a bit of a sweat, but had several drinks. I'm having a bit of difficulty with my back - it really aches, but once I perfect my riding posture hopefully that will be minimised. Rode into Ayton at about 11 am, past Viv's place (I didn't recognise it) to the general store. I treated myself to a drink and fruit, asked directions to the house that Andy Marshall recommended I track down - the home of Brock and Harri - the trail riders also about to set out for Melbourne.

I got sick of waiting for the phone so I began to head out, when in drove the two themselves -they'd heard through the small town grapevine that I was passing through - good thing they came, too - the directions I had been given were to his old house, several kilometres in the wrong direction! They invited me to stay the night, so I rode back to their property, a well-treed place, their house under construction covered with horsey paraphernalia in preparation for the journey.

A horse paddock with four excitable horses in it adjoined the house, so they could come up to the verandah. I unsaddled the horses and hosed them down - then we all went out to set up the electric fence (Brock and Harri were planning on getting one too). Went back to the house for many cups of tea and long conversations about the horses etc. Brock has been a ringer since he was 1 6 - then a horse tailer (preparing and managing the horses for mustering) -certainly knows what he's on about. He also used to work in rodeos. Watching him take his horses for a quick workout - he's a real horseman, very skilful.

Harrie's an ex-nurse - also about 40, but not really an experienced rider. They plan on going up through Cooktown, out to Laura, Chillagoe etc, down to rejoin the trail further south (they've done this section too many times). Eventually coming back here to start a trail riding business. And they're certainly equipped for it - their pack boxes (huge, plastic, tough waterproof things) fit neatly onto the horse, and their extremely light-weight saddles - none of which are found in Australia!

Anyway, my system's surviving - I'll be sending back some stuff at the first opportunity though - as much as I'd like them, I just don't have room for such luxuries as my walkman. And I've lost a lot through damage too... my compass was pulverised, the rear sights on my rifle broke (a real bugger), the aluminium billy has a neat hole in it from something, my toothpaste exploded over everything.. .but I'll survive! As it grew darker, we saddled up three of their horses and rode down to the caravan park/backpackers' for a few beers. Back here for spaghetti bolognaise, a shower and a most welcome mattress! Luxury!

Ayton
Friday 17th June

Yesterday Brock was up before dawn to go fishing with his neighbour - on their way back from taking a young couple out to Hope Island. Harrie and I drove out to Bloomfield Falls, through Wujal, the Aboriginal community where she used to work as a nurse. It is supposedly a dry community, however the numbers of flash new 4x4s told the tale of grog-running. . .they can get as much as $10 a stubbie/can, and only buy port in glass flagons so that they can water it down before sale in Wujal.


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